The best, bar none

Amanda Reid reveals the joys of Shinjuku’s tiny drinking holes | September 11, 2009

THE average Tokyo barman has an advantage. He can cook divine-smelling gokonomiyaki pancakes in a space the size of my suitcase, stir a sweet-potato vodka drink with a perfect squeeze of lemon, pick the ideal music to fill his smoky bar with atmosphere, charm you with only a few English words. My first night in Japan, and I’m falling in love.

We’re in Bar Tre Tre, which sits at the end of a cobblestoned laneway in central Tokyo’s Shinjuku district. Shinjuku’s railway station is the busiest in Japan, with millions streaming through each week. Grey government skyscrapers overlook colossal department stores; hidden in the hive of neon lights is Bar Tre Tre, the tiniest bar imaginable; it seats only eight comfortably.

Simon, my expat friend and guide, explains that this historic Golden Gai block is a labyrinth of more than 200 miniature traditional drinking holes. Each space is stamped with the distinctive character of its owner (theso-called master or mama), who holds court in theirdomain.

How does this limited-customer business turn a profit? It’s obvious upon meeting Tre Tre master and barman Gaku: he’s particularly cool to hang out with. Gaku relies on loyal regulars who soon become friends. I feel as if I’m attending a private party.

The enforced intimacy may not be for claustrophobes, but it’s great for quickly meeting a bunch of locals, all of whom are eager to teach me Japanese slang. No one seems bothered that they’re forced to stand and shuffle whenever a fellow patron departs. The cosy den is quirkyand full of soul. As the night progresses, I’m envious of this community of friends with their own unique bar; impersonal metropolitan megapubs simply don’t compare.

Behind the counter, Gaku obviously enjoys his job. He wears a satisfied expression as he gauges the atmosphere; his personal attention is central to the laughter and easy mood of Tre Tre. Thankfully, he’s very patient with my stilted Japanese, even when I mention that he looks like a pirate. I wangle an invitation to watch him play in the Golden Gai baseball team the following morning, after a night of work, drinks and no sleep.

Bottles of exotic alcohol line the red walls, and Simon tells me that the scrawled kanji characters on each are the various customers’ names. Like a membership badge, the Japanese tradition of keeping your own bottle behind the bar is the cheapest option if you plan to be a regular. Also recorded is the number of bottles consumed (the long-standing Tre Tre record holder was sadly forced into retirement by his doctor).

For the casual visitor, you’ll pay at least Y=1500 ($18.80) including cover charge, snack and one drink, as well as Gaku’s cheeky company. Cover charges are the norm in Golden Gai, so it’s worthwhile dropping in for several drinks. Extras are priced at Y=700-1000 each, with a tab system in operation. Agedashi, the snack food served most nights, is a surprise. Expect traditional morsels such as (fried) tofu, oden (a winter broth with eggs), tiny salads or tasty octopus balls. Another regular is squid jerky, which admittedly never reached my mouth after the first cautious smell.

For a full meal to line your stomach, Gaku recommends the nearby Sky Terrace Asian market, a rooftop restaurant hub with an open-air feel.

Tre Tre is open every night from 8pm, and the party continues as late (or early) as 5am, which is convenient since Japanese trains stop running soon after midnight. Conservative Japanese are said to steer clear of the gritty associations of Golden Gai (it originated as a precinct of brothels in the post-World War 11 era), although the block today is in fact a relief from the garish hostess bars and strip clubs nearby.

Despite an earthy broadmindedness, be prepared that not all bars are as welcoming to foreigners as Tre Tre, and peeking behind the doorway curtains can be intimidating.

It’s well worth trying out Bonita, one of the nicest bars in the district with surprisingly tasteful Mexican decor; the soft vibe reflects its two female bartenders, Ayako and Maiko. And directly underneath Tre Tre is the bar Champion, far less remarkable but with no cover charge; Y=500 for drinks and karaoke.

The annual Golden Gai festival in August is the perfect opportunity to sample the individual style of each establishment. Newcomers are expected and bargain prices let you visit as many as your liver allows. With luck, you’ll fall in love with your own bartender, and I can keep Gaku all to myself.

Checklist
Bar Tre Tre, 2nd floor, 1-1-10 Kabukicho (Shinjuku station, east exit); Sky Terrace Rooftop Asian food market, Toua Kaikan Building 2, 1-21-1 Kabukicho; Bonita, 1-1-9 Kabukicho.